Normandy, such a versatile region: endless beaches, crumbling cliffs, rolling fields, rivers cut deeply into steep rocks, and tons of bloody war history.
Caen, capital of Basse-Normandie, was liberated by the Allies only one month after D-day and in the meantime reduced to ruins during bombardments and fires that raged for eleven days. After the war the city was rebuilt, a project of over 25 years, so that the old monuments can still be visited today.
Chateau de Caen
When entering the city, this is the first building you stumble upon; especially since there is a parking garage underneath the castle, where we left our car. The citadel houses remnants of the eleventh century, and was left intact during World War II. The spacious courtyard is freely accessible. You can find nice views on the city and e.g. visit the Musée des Beaux Arts.
Eglise Saint-Pierre
This church can be found right across the street from the castle. The construction was started in the 13th century but only finished in the 16th century. The interior was kept very sober, although the arches of the side chapels show rich renaissance decoration formed like stalactites.
Abbaye-aux-Hommes with Eglise Saint-Etienne
This impressive building complex served as a hiding place for thousands of inhabitants during the bombardments of 1944. The church’s facade is hidden in a little alley, Lebailly, and is strikingly sober, almost ‘boring’. The inside is also naked, large, round, typically romanesque and just beautiful in its simplicity.
Eglise Saint-Etienne-le-Vieux
At the busy roundabout in front of the abbey are the ruins of an older church, that kept this state since the 19th century. Fascinating, and a pity you cannot approach any closer.
Abbaye-aux-Dames with Eglise de la Trinité
The female counterpart of the Abbaye-aux-Hommes and it could be me, but despite the sturdy and seemingly unfinished towers she is so much more female on the inside: serene, white – the romanesque style at his most beautiful!
Lunch: Le P’tit B
Address: 15 Rue du Vaugueux, 14000 Caen
website
This little street is bustling with little restaurants, one more touristic then the other. This one might seem chique, but actually is not; the plates are rather simple, nothing special, but you get value for money.
In short
Caen is a very cozy town to stroll around in for a few hours.
Practical
30 minute drive from Bayeux
Parking is possible on different places, mostly payant (e.g. Park Château – website)
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